Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Day 2 - Thursday, August 23 - Isle LaMotte, Vt. to Chambly, QC 66 miles.


After a good nights sleep in the Terry lodge and a short walk after breakfast. It was time to depart for Canada. We would have only about a ten mile ride to get to the border. Just down the road from the lodge was this really beautiful outdoor chapel. It almost looked like something you would see in Maui, not in the middle of Lake Champlanin. This site commerates the oldest European site in Vermont going back to 1666. And not too much further down the road was this beautiful rest area just to look out onto the lake and contemplate. I only wish. We had to get back on the road and start peddaling. As the wind started to pick up we really got to take full advantage of an increasing tailwind.

Just up the road we had the option of staying on the main road and heading west to Rousses Point, New York before heading north to Quebec; but since I got a speeding ticket 20 years ago on that little sliver of New York state I said 'No Thank You`. We instead veered off to the right on Vermont 225. As we rounded a corner you could just make out the Canadian flag and I didn`t notice even a building until we got about 200 feet from the border. This was a real eye opener. After growing up in San Diego, California I am used to a border crossing that has sixteen lanes and an hour wait on weekdays. We were the only car, I`m sorry people for miles around. In the 12 minutes after we made the right turn onto this road we were the only ones on it. As a southern Californian my first thought was how can they afford to keep this open.

As we approached we were asked by a young border guard if we were American citizens while I tried to get a snapshot. I was immediatly told that this was a secure area and that photographs were forbidden. I wanted to say `Come on, man. The only thing I see here needing security is corn, cows and silos. Oh yeah and the horribly maintained road on the Canadian sign.` But oh well, I went through the questioning. Do you have any alcohol or tabacco on you? `No` (Yeah right here in my handlebar bag). Have you ever been arrested before a judge? `No`. Have you ever been refused entry into Canada? `No`. Come on...I mean who do I look like, John Lennon. After reviewing our passport we proceed to tell him to `Have a good Day` (In English of coure), and to possibly loossen his shorts. Just think, last year I didn`t even need a passport.) I felt like telling this guy, you want to really see some action go to Tijuana on a summer three day weekend, none of this in the middle of the corn field Jack Daniels and high blood pressure medication stuff there.

Any way, did I mention the road leading from the border station was BAD...as in Tijuana bad...hey maybe the do have something in common. Any way it was good to be over the border so quickly in the morning so I could start practicing my French. Along the way we meet Michele a transplanted Brit who now lives in Montreal with his wife. He was headed south from Montreal to New York City. This guy who was not young, was really loaded down. He was also a real character. He says he does the trip at least once a year and usually brings his wife but she was not feeling so good this time. With his gear he says he usually just finds a place hidden off the side of the road and just sleeps there. Any way this was the first bicycle tourist (at least fully loaded) we saw and it was good just to talk with him for about 15 minutes.

As the road got progressively better we made the left had turn onto highway 202 and were soon heading over what may have no longer been Lake Champlain but now may have been the Richeleau River. About two miles into Canada we started seeing the Route Verte Signs and now as we crossed the river we could see the sign pointing north as we made a right turn onto 223 near Lacolle.

Once the signs pointed us away from the river and out into the cornfields it was now evident that we had the roads to ourselfs. With only a handful of cars over the next hour the roads were pretty much to ourselves. We could easily here oncoming cars long before they approached. It gave me a chance to eat that apple I smuggled over the border from Vermont. I applied sunscreen and drank some more water all while riding down the middle of the road. This is where we first encountered the `Watch out for les enfants` sign. The sign is your typical children playing ...Hey watch out! sign but in truley Quebecois fashing that dont hold back graphically. There in a yellow and black sillohette is a picture of a young girl with severe lacerations lying on the grown with a shoe and a sock on one foot but missing the shoe on the other foot. You cannot tell if she is alive or dead but you get the picture (so to speak).

After a few more miles in farm country we decided to have some lunch St.-Jean-Sur-Richeleu. After riding from a few miles through the main boulevard through town we were getting pretty hungry so we stopped at the first place we saw, an Italian Restaurant specializing in Pizza. After leaving we followed the route verte down alongside the river we the canal now started. Much to our suprise with the added attraction of the canals there were all kinds of places to eat. Oh well thats part of the adventure. Well we knew we were on the right path anyway knowing that if we followed the canal we would eventually hit Chambly, the site of Fort Chambly.

After passing (I think) 16 locks we eventually reached Chambly, a town noted for their beer. So after we got a room for the night we started looking for a brewery or brew pub. After stopping at the local bike shop Velo Chambly (which is located right next to the canal bridge) to buy a water bottle cage. We asked for directions. He recommeded....


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59 miles
143 total

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Day 1 Wed. August 22 - Burlington to Isle La Motte 66 miles

Today's ride; via Google Maps (roughly approximated since Google Maps cannot process bike trails and paths).

After getting up a bit late we still had to run a couple of errands. Getting some last minute bike work done before hitting the road and sending back some items we had overpacked. Then it was down to Local Motion, a great biking resource at the lake front in Burlington. Ron one of the owners of Local Motion as well as Bike Recycle Vermont was extremley helpful (along with his staff) of getting us the right maps of the area. Local motion rents bikes, inline skates, as well as being a great advocate of bike trails in the lake region. The have done great job with the excellent bike trails around the lake.

I just had to take a picture of this building right next to Local Motion. Notice the animated gargoyles.

From Velo Quebec 2007


There is a great bike trail in the works called the Island Line Trail that is a great example of "Rails to Trails". It follows the path of an old trail line running from Burlington to the Champlain Islands. There is only one problem. The old rail steel was in severely bad shape that they had to tear it all out; which included a bridge that let boats through the train line. So now there is a 500 foot gap in the trail in the middle of the lake. Local Motion has oraganized a ferry to transport bikes over "The Cut" but it is only operating on the weekends in August; so needless to say we had to take the long way around. This added some time and distance but also put us together with a bit of high speed traffic.


I will say though that the stretch of bike trail from downtown Burlington to the Winooski River Bridge is a real gem. The view strethes all the way to the other side of the lake into New York State. After crossing the bridge you will soon see a local park. If you are going to take the fery on the Island Line Trail you would make a left at the park but we were taking the long rote on highway 2 so we head left until we reached Holy Cross Road.



Watch this intersection. The street signs are not to clear hear. Look for the coffee shop on the corner. Just a reminder there really isn't any place to stop for food until you reach the islands. About the only plance is the Exxon Gas Station before turning onto Highway 2. From here out out you bicycle on Highway 2 which has very wide shoulders but the traffic is doing about 60 mph.


Once on the island however, we did stop for lunch and some ice cream (this is Vermont!) at the Apple Island Store on the south east corner of the Theodore Roosevelt Highway 2 and South St. We also found our first apple tree so we picked a couple and headed on our way down the highway until Ferry Road which got us of the main drag and along a secondary road along the islands west shore. The road takes you right past the ferry landing for the Plattsburgh to Grand Island Ferry. While riding along you get a feel for the fact that in addition to being a beautiful tourist island it is also the home of many family working farms, so we did get behind a few slow moving tractors transporting the summer hay.


Moving north we did stop a the well known Hero's Welcome, a combination, gas station, general store, deli, bike and boat rental shop, and local coffee hangout in the town of North Hero. Just after this stop I caught this local gentleman getting ready for Fall with the town display.








From Velo Quebec 2007



By now it was getting late and we had made reservations at the Terry Lodge on Isle La Motte's West Shore. Since the island is a side island the highway does not go through it at all so it is much quieter traffic wise. It was a great way to wrap up the day with the sun going down in the west over the New York side of the Lake. I was told to look for the row of Chairs facing the water; and as we rounded the corner; well there they were.
From Velo Quebec 2007

After a nice meal of pasta and with some excellent sausage and meatballs, garlic bread, lemonade, and some excellent pastry for desert, I took a walk along the shore. Sitting in the chairs at about 9:30 pm watching the lights on the lakeshore it New York was a nice way to finish the days ride.

66 miles

84 cummulative miles.




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Tuesday, August 21, 2007

And the Journey Begins - Pre Ride 18 miles


After an all night flight from San Jose, CA to New York, I arrived at JFK airport at 7:30 this morning to meet Dave for a 9:15 AM flight to Burlington. Weather in New York was overcast and raining with cloud cover down to about 1,000 feet. Needless to say the traffic getting out on Tuesday morning was a bit of a wait. After being 10th in line for departure we finally got the go ahead for take off. All was forgotten however when we headed north the skies cleared with great visibility all around the Lake Champlain area.

After arriving at our place (the Fairfield Inn in Williston, VT) the first thing we did was have a bike build party. We unpacked the bikes but on the pedals, handlebars, front wheels etc. I know its not a good idea but I had purchased the rear bag and handle bar bag without ever having installed them on the bike. Well there were know issues with the bikes and after a few test rides around the parking lot we set out for town. The hotel is about 4 miles from town.




Given the Burlington has a large student population there are decent bike paths and trails in town but out where we were staying it gets a little sketchy. There are quite a bit of large trucks on the road in Williston. The town is just the perfect size to see and visit by bike either at the local pedestrian only outdoor mall or down at the lakeside. It is a bit challenging however given the hills that come up from the lake front. With a substantial student population from about three different colleges there are always people out and about either on foot or by bike.
From Velo Quebec 2007



18 miles
18 miles total

Thursday, August 16, 2007

The State of Cycling in Quebec



As soon as you do any research on le Route Verte you instantly become acquainted with Velo Quebec. And if you are like I was; well its a bit confusing. At first it seems like a large bike club based in Montreal, but the more you read about it you begin to think its more like LAB, the League of America Bicyclists. But it is different because Velo Quebec is more localized, more provincial and their main goal over the last ten years was the completion of le Route Verte.

If you read the LAB website it is clear that it is an advocacy organization first. The current page has a clear picture of the Capitol in the background. One thing that Velo Quebec does very well is to research and analyze the state of cycling in Quebec with regards to the penetration of active cyclists in the community. Every five years the association publishes a report which highlights the level of cycling activity in the province and its impact on the economy. (Bicycling in Quebec 2005 and Bicycling in Quebec 2000). Included with my membership was the choice of either a subscription to Velo Mag or Plein Aire. I choose Velo Mag and although it is written in French only it is in my opinion a better magazine than the national magazine in the states; "Bicycling" which sometimes sees to be written for the recreational high school students.

In addition to the magazine I received cycling specific maps for every area of Quebec along with cycle touring brochures for each region. Additional books and publications can be ordered. All in all these resources provide a good base to start from in your research on bicycle touring in the area.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Le Route Verte


I originally heard about Le Route Verte in an article in Bicycling magazine which is ironic because I rarely read Bicycling magazine. In the article it mentioned that after ten years of planing and constructing Le Route Verte is was soon to be inaugurated. Much of the trail is typical "Rails to Trails" conversions.

After cycling touring around British Columbia two years ago (photos) I was really impressed with the state of cycling in Canada. The bike trails were good to excellent. They were well marked, well maintained, and well used for everyday life near urban centers. Motorists are a lot more tolerant about sharing the road with cyclists and pedestrians. So after such a wonderful experience two years ago I thought I would try the East Coast. I had traveled extensively through French and Atlantic Canada 10 years ago and thought I would try it this time by bike.

Through an association of small tourist and argicultural villages called l’Association des plus beaux villages du Québec, (or the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages of Quebec) I did some research on some small picturesque villages to visit. The goal is to use parts of le route verte and some country backroads to find some scenic small towns.

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Trois Rivieres to Quebec City


Trois Rivieres -

Hostel International-Trois-Rivières
Shared Room $24 CDN
Private Room $55 CDN
Check in 8-11; Check out 11
Common room; Laundry; Car parking; Self catering kitchen; Luggage storage; Internet access; currency exchange; Lockers; Library;


Trois-Rivières to Levis Ferry Crossing

Ferry Crossing - $2.60 CDN

Quebec
Hostel International - Quebec
Shared Room $26 CDN
Private Room $71 CDN
Check in 8-11; Check out 11

Friday, March 2, 2007

Eastern Townships


Eastern Townships
Travel Map

Le plus Beaux Villages du Quebec
Google Maps 50 miles/80 kilometers from Frelighsburg to St-Benoit-du-Lac
Frelighsburg - Stanbridge-East - Knowlton - St.-Benoit-du-Lac

Frelighsburg

Google Map

Nestled between luscious green valleys on the banks of the Brochets River, close to Mount Pinacle and the american border, Frelighsburg is home to a particularly special architectural heritage as is reflected in the importance, originality and preservation of its buildings. Its proximity to the United States meant this village became a place where many cross-border immigrants would eventually settle. The first wave of immigrants arrived in 1790; among them was Abram Freligh, who gave the village its name upon acquiring the sawmill. The second mill, built on the rivers’ edge by Freligh’s son in 1839, is now a historical monument and is private property. Frelighsburg began expanding throughout the 19th century, with side-by-side construction of American-style stone and wooden buildings.



  • Au cœur de la Pomme, 42, route 237 : farm with apple products , specialty of applevinegar and honey.
  • À la Girondine, 104, route 237 sud : Ducks, geese, rabbits, pâtés, foie gras etc.
  • Le Festiv’Art, (Saturday and Sunday, early september) : hundred artists from all over the Québec on the main street.

Restaurants



  • Café-terrasse Les Sucreries de l’Érable,
    16, rue Principale, downtown (in the old general store)
  • Aux Deux Clochers, rue de l’Église
  • La Girondine, 104, route 237 sud, country dining

    Stanbridge East

    Google Map


    In 1797, several years following the American Revolution, loyalists Nathan Andrews and Caleb Tree arrived in Canada, and built a grain mill next to the Rivi ère des Brochets (“Pikes river”). The little village of Stanbridge East was thus born, in the heart of a calm and quiet landscape. Harmoniously blended within are cultivated fields, edged in groves and hedges and flanked by evergreens and leafy trees. The river cuts across the landscape, weaves along the hollows, and leads through the heart of the village.

After strolling along the roads, which offer eye-catching vantage points, cyclists and walkers arrive at the village centre, surrounded by nineteenth-century ancestral homes built in the American style using brick and painted wood. Next to the Brochets River is the Missisquoi Museum, housed in the 1820 Cornell Mill, which was built on the edge of the barrage. To the east are Hodge’s General Store and Bill’s Barn (Grange à Bill).

As in its neighbouring villages, here, too, religions reside peacefully side by side. Saint James Anglican Church and its presbytery (1860), built in the neogothic style, stand in a shaded area alongside the small verdant cemetery. The United Church (1884) sits on the opposite side of the park, displaying a more Victorian style. Rather ironically, the Sainte-Jeanne-d’Arc Catholic Church is housed in a former 1861 bank.

Starting in the nineteenth century, this peaceful setting saw the expansion of small industries, such as a wool-refining mill, a manufacturer of wooden tops, and a leather tannery. Soon after, railroads and stores were built. Agriculture also began developing at this time, and quickly became the village mainstay after most of the workshops closed down. Today, in addition to standard farming, farms produce a variety of lesser-grown fruits.



  • Chèvrerie Les Caprices du Pré (goat farm), 1, chemin Blinn (visits, activities and demonstration of hand-made goat’s milk soap production)
  • La Ménagerie de verre, 2, rue Riceburg (artisanal stained glass window making ).
  • La Pépinière Bernier, 155 Ridge (nursery and small fruits)
  • Les Serres Mercier, 191, chemin Bunker, route 237 (garden centre)
  • Le magasin général Blinn, 12, rue River
  • Meubles Shaker, route 237 ( Shaker style hand made furniture)

Restaurants

  • Café « Chez moi »,
    rue Maple (delicatessen, breakfasts)
    Phil Baker’s bakery,
    19, North Road (bakery and asparagus for sale)
    Restaurant « Le Sainte Jeanne d’Arc »,
    7, rue River (breeded game).

Knowlton

Google Map
About 100 kilometres southeast of Montreal, on the shores of a magnificent five- kilometre wide lake, Knowlton is at once a blooming, shady and festive village, especially during the summer and weekends. Vacationers gather here to enjoy aquatic activities on the lake, the beauty of the surrounding landscapes, and the quaint charm of the streets, which are lined with specialized boutiques, antique shops, and cafés.

The village was founded in 1821 with the construction of the first mill, a flour mill built in 1836 by Colonel Knowlton; a sawmill and the general store then followed. In the second half of the nineteenth century, Knowlton became the administrative, legal and postal centre of the region.

As is typical of the region, the presence of three different churches (one Catholic, one Anglican and one 1875 Victorian-style Methodist) epitomizes the co-existence of different cultures and religions. Beautiful residences spread across the village, particularly in the wooded area near the north entrance. Visit Masonic Hall (61, chemin Lakeside), which dates back to 1843 and once housed a tannery. A scenic little pond drawn from Cold Brook creek decorates the village centre.

A number of interesting public buildings are worth visiting, notably the P.H Knowlton Memorial (1854, now the Musée historique du comté de Brome) The History Museum of Brome County, the former post office (1904, now serves as city hall), the former Eastern Township bank, and the old library of 1894.

Duck farming is a Lake Brome specialty. Purchase or sample the variety of duck products available. For your intellectual cravings, a summer theatre features performances in English.

The Anglo-Saxon charm of Knowlton makes a winter visit worthwhile too. Enjoy the inns, winter ice-fishing, window shopping, and winter sports at Mount Glen. For a rejuvenating visit, try the lakefront health spa.



Brome Lac

Brome Lac Ducks
Brome Lake Ducks Ltd.
40 chemin Centre,
Knowlton (Quebec) Canada J0E 1V0
Google Maps


Duckfest - Canard de Fete au Lac Brome
Sept. 23-24, Sept. 30 - Oct 1







St-Benoit-du-Lac Abbey
Map
Blue Cheese and Cider
Room and Board $40 per night

Benidictine Abbey

St-Benoit-du-Lac to Magag to Ste_Catherine-de-Hatley to Sherbrook to St-Denis-de-Brompton to Racine.

90 kilometers or 56 miles







Racine



Racine to Victoriaville 77 kilometers

Victoriaville

Victoriaville to Trois Rivieres


Thursday, March 1, 2007

Isle d'Orleans

Restaurant
Le Moulin St. Laurent Google Maps

Bolulangerie
Boulangerie G.H. Blouin Map

3967, chemin Royal

Sainte-Famille, G0A 3P0

(418) 829-2590

Opening hours 2006 : from june 23 to october 10, 7:30am to 7pm, monday to saturday. 11am to 5pm sunday. Otherwise, 7:30am to 5pm, monday to saturday.

Le Boulange Google Maps
The taste of good bread. Croissants, Danish-style pastry, gourmet pizza, sandwiches. Coffee. The River, pleasure. (418) 829-3162

Smokehouse
Les Fumeries de i'Ile Google Maps
Agrotourism
Chocolatrie de i'le d'Orleans 160 chemin Royal, Sainte Sainte Petronille
418/828-2250

Les Fromages de l'Isle d'Orleans 4696 chemin Royal, Sainte-Famille, 418-829-0177 10-6 daily

Maple syrup, maple sugar:
Manoir Mauvide-Genest
1451 Chemin Royal, Saint-Jean, Quebec GOA 3WO
(telephone: 418)829-2630
Open daily June through September. 10AM to 5PM. Labor Day to October 15: 11AM to 5PM
$2 admission for adults

Fromagerie
Fromagerie Bergeron (Google Map)
Winner 2006 Swiss-Type Cheese -
Le Lotbinière
3837 ROUTE MARIE-VICTORIN
SAINT-ANTOINE-DE-TILLY, QC G0S 2C0, Canada
(418) 886-2234